In this post, I’m going to be showing you the exact process I use to get parts ready for powder coating. I’ve done a solid amount of powder coating before and made a couple of mistakes so I realized how important the preparation process is. So in this post, I’m going to be showing you a couple of very important ways to get your part ready for powder coating.
But before we jump into the preparation process, I’m going to be doing a little giveaway on these CR125 rims. Alright, guys, these are the stock CR125 rims off the bike I’m building and I got them all cleaned up in the parts washer for you so just stay tuned ‘til the end of the post to see how you guys can get into this contest to win these. Alright, I’m ready to get to work guys so let’s get into it.
Alright, the first thing we need to do to get this hub ready for powder coating is to tear it down to just be by itself so we got to take off the rotor, the tire, the wheel, and all the spokes to get it ready. All these tire-related tools that I’m using will be down the description for you guys.
It’s an extremely common issue for the spoke nipples to seize to the actual spokes and you don’t really want to reuse your spokes or at least I don’t ‘cause they’re always seized so whenever I can’t get off with the impact I’m just going to cut with the angle grinder. And go ahead and move on to the rear tire here. You could see the treads on it are really messed up and it’s definitely in need of a new tire on this bike.
That sprockets pretty worn down too so I’m going to be looking to replace that and also I don’t know if you guys remember but these rear bolt that went through this tire that goes through the swingarm was seized in there and it’s because those bearings were rusted really badly so this thing’s definitely in need of a rebuild. Alright now that we got these wheel hubs torn down all the way we can begin to clean them up in the parts washer.
I don’t have the heater turned on so the parts washer doesn’t this fluid doesn’t do that great of a job without the heat on but it’ll just help me remove some of the heavier dirt before I go to clean them up. I’m not really focused on making these things look absolutely perfect because I’m going to be painting them, all I care is that the finishes smooth.
Well, now that I got most of the dirt off of these guys I’m going to remove the casting lines as you could see that casting line I’m working on right there and I’m using the Pryme MX cleaning pads for these so those will be down the description. And also you could see like the splatter from when it was cast there, we’re going to remove all of that ‘cause that’s if that’s on there it’ll make the paint job look a lot worse so you really want a smooth finish for the paint to adhere to.
Using these cleaning pads is the easiest way to get the casting marks off but I’m not going to be able to get everywhere with them so I’m just going to get as many places as I can. Now I’m going to use the Dremel tool to get into the places I couldn’t reach with the cleaning pads but I found out pretty quickly this metal bit on the Dremel tool just was cleaning the surface dirt off but it wasn’t really removing all the roughcasting marks.
As you could see there’s this casting mark that’s going over right now and it’s not removing it’s just cleaning it so I had to use something different. What I ended up doing is using this little sanding bit and only putting it on there about halfway so I could use the end of it to like bend down into the bottom and allowed me to get a lot deeper and also remove the rough finish inside of the inner hub.
This process can be pretty tedious but I really advise you guys not to give up on it and give your best effort because it’ll really make that paint job that much better in the end. Now that I’ve cleaned up most of the casting marks with that sanding bit I’m going to take this course scotch Brite wheel here and use it to get a nicer finish across this ‘cause the sanding bit leaves a little bit of a rough finish.
I was pretty happy with how both these came out looks like we got most of the casting marks out and they look ready for paint. Alright, guys well we got them all finished up here, really happy with how the finish came out looks really good on these. The inside of them was hard to get to but I think we got a split enough finish that the powder coat will adhere to it and look pretty smooth on it.