Today we are going to be working on doing some powder coating.
Here’s the dirty shock that we’re starting with today. As you can see the OEM yellow paint on the spring has been chipped and also this entire thing is just really dirty so we’re going to be powder coating the spring today and then the shock body I’m going to be doing a process called cerakote on later but we’re going to start with this thing in the parts washer.
We got all the surface dirt off of this part to get it clean for the disassembly process so we don’t have to deal with all the dirt. You could still see there are some marks on it and that’s just worn and tear on the part we’re not going to be able to do anything for that in the part washer.
So we’re going to start the disassembly on this shock here I’m going to start with that top locking nut there and I’m going to take a flat punch and wedge it into one of the grooves on it and just hit it with a hammer to break the seal loose on it. After you remove your top locking nut you can go ahead and measure the shock. This is a good idea so when you go to reassemble it you’d know how far down your shock should be compressed, in this case, it was ten eleven sixteenths.
Moving this bottom locking nut is going to be a little bit more difficult but we’re going to do that same thing just hitting it with a hammer to break it loose and then after we get it loose we’ll actually be able to turn the spring and it’ll turn that bottom locking nut and then after it won’t turn anymore from the spring we should be able to just pull it off of there by hand.
And then after we remove our spring tension it’s pretty easy to remove the spring all the way. There’s these you just move the spring back and then separate these two pieces. On some shocks, there is a little clip in there that you’ll have to remove but on this one, you just have to rotate it off of there because it has a hole in it. And then we can remove the spring tensioner baseplate and then pull off that whole spring.
Alright, now that we got the spring off the shock body we can go ahead and sandblast it that’s what I use to remove paint from parts. You can use paint remover but it will take longer but if you’re only doing two or three parts on one dirt bike it might be worth it. You don’t have to spend a whole lot of money to get a good sandblasting set up though, you can find one used or Harbor Freight sells one for cheap so it’s really up to you what direction you want to go there.
And now that I got the part out of the sandblaster I’m going to go ahead and clean it off with some simple green or purple power degreaser. The Eastwood powder-coating gun that I use comes with some wire but it’s a little too flimsy to hold up this heavy metal spring so I’m cutting some welding wire here it’s just stainless steel welding wire and I’m cutting it about six to eight inches apart and then I’m going to fold these into little hooks to hold the part up in the oven.
Now I’m just going to take the metal rod that I use to hold the part up in the oven and make sure everything looks right and it seems to be mounting up correctly. Now I can put the part in the oven for 30 minutes at 450 degrees to gas out some of the bad chemicals in the part. Alright now, this parts are going to be cleaned off with some Eastwood pre-painting prep to remove those toxins that moved up to the surface when we were gassing it out.
Now I’m just going to repeat those last two sites the second time so I’m going to gas the part out again and then clean it off. I’m actually found this flyer that I was using there to hold the part it worked a lot better than reaching with my gloves because I was worried about touching the part when it had paint on it, but you could also achieve this with two handheld pliers as well.
And the springs going to be that same color that on the wheel hubs in the last video that’s going to be that super chrome base coat and then going to be going over it with a really nice dazzling red to give it a really great finish. A little tip that I’ve found with this Eastwood powder coating gun is it works best when the bottle is full about half to three-quarters full and then you’ll get really good powder flow.
Now I’m going to install my ground clamp to the steel bar that I hung across to hold the part up and switch my voltage setting to the 25k and I can begin to spray in the part now. You guys are unfamiliar with how powder coating works basically the gun electrostatically charges the powder so kind of like static electricity and then that electro-charged particle are attracted to the grounded part because in basic terms electricity likes to flow to the ground.
And now I’m just cleaning a spot off on the steel rod here so when I go to spray that second coat I have a good spot to ground. And now I’m going to put the spring in there until it reaches 450 degrees and then an additional 12 minutes to cure. And do the second coat I wait ‘til the part hits 150 degrees and then it will be ready to spray on that second coat of powder.