I’ve done a lot of parts like this and they’ve come out really good without using expensive equipment so stay tuned and watch the video and you’ll definitely want to see how these wheel hubs turn down at the end.
Let’s jump right into it really quick here I’m going to pull the bearings out of the front and rear wheel hubs. To do this I’m going to use these blind bearing pullers here from Tusk, I’ve used these on a lot of engines builds and anything with a blind bearing. So what you do is you pretty much just slide this end with the teeth in and then you’re going to put the expander in which will expand those teeth out and grab onto the bearing.
Now I’m just going to torque these teeth down to make sure that they don’t slip off the bearing. And then you take your slide hammer and thread it into the top of your collet here. Okay now that I remove both the bearings and the collar out of that side I can head over to the sprocket side and there’s this outer ring here that Honda puts in it’s called the bearing retainer to hold these bearings in and it needs a special tool to remove it.
This tool I picked up from my local Honda dealer but I know they have them on Rocky Mountain ATV/MC as well and it just fits into the little divots in that outer ring and I’ll just take it right off real easy. Alright, just one more bearing here and then I am going to sandblast these parts, this is just a medium-sized sandblaster here that I picked up locally for around 500 bucks but you don’t really even need to sandblast these.
If you followed my last video on paint prepping these guys which I have down the description for you, I show you how to do it without any special tools like sandblasting or anything like that. But I still prefer to do it anyway just to give something extra to the, for the paint to adhere to.
The next step is going to be to gas up these parts but before I do that I like to clean it off with some purple power degreaser or simple green degreaser is fine just to get some of that sandblast media off of there and maybe a little bit of dirt too depending.
So unfortunately the oven I usually use for most shop things and for painting as you could see it doesn’t fit the wheel hubs so I’m going to have to cut this steel rod right here and then weld it together to make a piece that will fit all the way across that I can slide through the wheel hub just so I don’t have to worry about touching it on parts of the oven when I’m putting it in.
Using my handy temperature gun here I was able to tell that the oven is up to 450 degrees and ready for me to put the part in for 30 minutes. I’m going to start out with a base coat of super chrome as what this is and then I’m going to put a translucent color over it. I really like the base coat ‘cause it kind of shines through that translucent color and I got it from Prismatic Powders.
As you could see they have a technical data sheet there and it really explains how to work with their powders. Originally I was just going to go with a red on this but after watching Cameron Niemela’s video I saw him doing this super chrome and it looked absolutely amazing so if you guys want to do me a favor go check out his channel, he does amazing stuff with dirt bikes and he’d really appreciate it since he’s going through a tough time right now.
Alright here I just got the gun all cleaned off with some compressed air and I’m ready to put the super chrome in. I usually get this ready while my parts gassing out in the oven. I use an Eastcote Eastwood powder coating gun it’s got a dual voltage setting which I like. It’s not the fanciest of guns out there but it’s definitely affordable for someone who doesn’t powder coat a lot.
Alright looks like our parts are done in the oven here so I’m going to pull it out and I’m just going to give it one last cleanup with Eastwood paint prep. This is one of the most important parts of the painting process because you’ve just gassed up the part and it’s released all the deep dirt and oil from in the part out to the surface you want to make sure to clean that off because it won’t allow the powder to stick to it.
Alright guys finally the two hours of preparation to get both these hubs ready is complete and I can finally spray these parts, so enjoy. I’ve connected my ground strap to the metal bar hanging across the part and then I’m just going to start with these harder side areas. Just kind of you want to smoke it out from a distance you don’t want to get up too close to it and just kind of let the powder does the work by itself.
Now that I’m done I’m just going to clean off these ground areas before when I go to spray them again. According to the Prismatic Powders technical data sheet you want to wait ‘til the part hits 450 degrees so for me that took about ten to fifteen minutes and then you’ll leave it in there to cure for another twelve minutes of that temperature. Okay, now that we got this shiny chrome look I’m just going to wait till it cools down to 150 degrees and hit it again with some red powder.
Alright guys so Prismatic Powders’ technical data sheet actually told me to spray this part at room temperature after the super chrome cooled off but I did have practice and I wasn’t able to get the red powder to stick once I waited for it to get to room temperature so I’m spraying it at 150 and it works a lot better. Now the parts are completely coated in red powder I’m going to put it into the oven until it reaches 400 degrees and then another 10 minutes.
This thing came out so sick guys I’m super happy with it I can’t wait to get it next to that other one and on the bike. If you guys are liking these videos and you want to see more cool stuff like this go ahead and hit that subscribe button for me. And also if you guys want to let me know what color I should do the actual rear shock body because I’m doing that spring this same color but I want to know what color you think I should do the rear shock body, so let me know down in the comments.
Okay, and I ran through all the steps the same on this front wheel hub and I’m just now getting out of gassing the part and I’m going to wait for it to cool to room temperature and put that first coat of super chrome on. So I mentioned a little bit to you guys earlier about that dual voltage setting on this Eastwood powder coating gun but I didn’t really explain what that means.
So basically what that is, is it has a 25,000 volt setting and a 10,000 volt setting and I usually spray the whole part on the 25 and then I do a light fog coat with the 10,000 volts setting. This is because of the Faraday effect, the part will actually if you have too much voltage the part will reject the powder so you want to spray it at 10k to make sure you got it everywhere.